5 Day Bike Packing Adventure from Swellendam to Knysna

Adventure biking conjures up majestic scenery…

If your incurable sense of curiosity got you to the start with little more than your toothbrush, sunblock and bum cream- you were signing up to be wowed by nature, stretched beyond your comfort zone and delighted by your fellow sojourners’ quirks along the way.

Riding on an unsupported bike packing adventure does take very good planning, so the minimalist packing list and seemingly impossibility to shift boundaries, might be off-putting for most. Moving beyond your fears and embracing the unknown-That’s a good start

Johann and I were so blessed to share this adventure with old friends Warwick, Fran and Bruce.

Fran and Warwick getting themselves organised in Swellendam.

We spent the night in Swellendam, where nervous worry was soon replaced with raucous laughter as each of us were allocated 12 liters of on-the-bike storage. Clothes had to be the most essential, toiletries and bum cream had to be decanted into exact measure for 5 days only. This is a very scary but liberating act for most. 

One of the golden moments of the tour was to hear how liberating is was for Fran to learn that we are able to have such a great time with just the bare essentials – Read her testimonial below.

Johann Wykerd

Expert hands fitting each bike with its its cargo. Johann is a master as minimalist life.

We supplied the bike-bags, which were stuffed tightly with clothes and toiletries. While most of us opted for a small bag on our backs for water, food, rain jacket and tools.

Warwick and Fran were on Ebikes so careful planning was needed to plan for optimal battery life over the distance. Keeping those chargers close at hand. 

Waiting for the ferry at Malgas.

Day 1-Swellendam to Witsand

The 80km on our 1st day from Swellendam to Witsand needed a tweak here and there to balance the packs and secure shoes. Lunch stop at Malagas’ hotel and the lovely trek across on the famous Malgas pont, gave us enough boost to finish strong.. The River Lodge was a welcome sight as a cold breeze blew up the Breede River, which gave us the opportunity to wash and dry our kit. After a good meal we all slept very well.

Day 2-Witsand to Stilbaai

9 am start on a beautiful blue sky morning, turned into the most challenging 77 km of rough corrugated gravel roads to Stilbaai.  Lunch stop in Vermaaklikheid was interesting as we were able to hear all the stoep-chatter from the locals. One thing about the outback and it’s people is the unique  beauty and happy warm  welcoming smiles

Stilbaai was buzzing with long weekend visitors and we wolved down pizzas and waffles to forget our pummelled delicate behinds,  before checking into our accommodation, where we were able to book a load of washing while much needed  snooze were enjoyed in our warm comfy accommodation. Leaving the steeds to rest, we wandered down the road under crystal clear winter night sky to find food… soon new acquaintances became friends as we shared a meal.

Day 3-Stilbaai to Mosselbaai

Delicate behinds were nurtured over that extra cuppa at breakfast while saddles were skillfully adjusted by Johann, finding a more enjoyable, comfortable position for everyone on the bike.

Happy chatter over good coffee and scrumptious breakfast in Stilbaai.

Cycling over the Goukou river with glorious morning light got us all into a good rhythm. A super welcome at Die Winkelkie with steaming hot buttered bread and traditional cape vye konfeit made us remember how totally awesome good food and country hospitality can make you feel. Just as well as our planned lunch stop had a big padlock on the gate, so Warwick promptly sat down and unpacked his bars and munchies while the beasts  of the field stared blankly at us, chewing their cud. These were my most favorite moments… Unforced rhythms of Grace…letting the solitude and simplicity seep into our souls.

We ducked into a petrol station for a quick bowl of soup before a intense cycle through traffic into buzzing Mosselbaai. Johann was adamant to share the Santos Express Train Lodge with us. This train is parked right on the edge of Diaz beach offering a truly one of a kind experience. Sleeping in compartments complete with folding bunk beds and chest to chest shuffles past each other in the train corridors. Warwick and Fran were upgraded to the Royal Suites which is an absolute spoil. For this I’ll have to return to the Santos Express in summer. 

Although this was the longest day with 93km, the varied and interesting surrounds was most enjoyable.

Santos Express Train Lodge 

The Royal Suite is the last cart and has a private access directly onto the beach. Quite an experience.

Day 4-Mosselbaai to Wilderness

Sunrise over the sea, a delicious breakfast then off we rode through Grootbrak and Kleinbrak, up and into the back of George with the impressive Outeniqua mountains watching every pedal stroke. What does fruit cakes, horses and ewes have in common?… the answer is a Southern Cape adventure secret…. 

A bone chilling wind forced us into a wonderful scrumptious lunch stop in the Barn across from Fancourt, before making our way through George to the start of the 7 passes route. 

Big smiles as we entered Eden forest.
Majestic old trees silently witnessing as we conquer each of the 7 passes.

We had to dodge a few nerve wrecking corners on our very steep and quick descent into Wilderness. Finishing our 74km day with a huge sense of relief-By now the fatigue on the bodies were felt in weary bones. Country hospitality at Amber Light in Wilderness, had us in clean clothes and very good spirits over another warm breakfast in this unique Wilderness village.

Day 5-Wilderness to Knysna

Climbing immediately up along the Serpent River gave us breath taking views – Riding in an out of clumps of the Old Forest had us all in quiet moments of contemplation and soul searching as we climbed up through dark forest canopies, to dappled shade and blue skies cresting the remaining 5 passes, just to fall down the next thrilling hairpin bends to the river below, then bear up the next pass, counting down 5,4,3,2,1…. An incredible sense of satisfaction washed over each one as we took our little sneak over Red Bridge, popping us out on the Knysna Lake. We have conquered the 7 Passes

Stopping in at Knysna waterfront for a well deserved burger and bear-Everyone sitting with a ridiculously content smile. Our final destination was at the very top of the Knysna.

So satisfying to look back and reflect on an adventure, on new friendships, on boundaries shifted.

#whilewearestillyoungenough

A Short Video of our Adventure…

Testimony of a satisfied client.

It was with some trepidation that we arrived at our B & B in Swellendam the afternoon before the start of our 5 day self supported cycle tour to Kynsna. 

What a shock to find that everything we needed for 5 days had to fit into a very small bag that was to be attached to the back of our bikes.  We had packed a fairly small bag (so we thought!) of kit & toiletries, but this had to be chopped by half ; so there was much hilarity trying to decide what “stuff” took priority. 

Needless to say, we did not need to worry about anything, Johann and Allegra were superb – their organisation and attention to detail was excellent, whether it was arranging our accommodation, our meals, or just making sure we were keeping up with the group.  We had  a fantastic time – great company with lots of laughs (and coffee stops) along the way.     

What I took out of the experience:

• There is no better way to see some of the most spectacular scenery SA has to offer.
• How little “stuff” one actually needs – we survived quite comfortably with our tiny little bag!
• It definitely brought out my spirit of adventure and fun – I cant wait to do another one!
• Just meeting like minded people and developing new friendships is wonderful.

It was an amazing experience, and I would recommend it to anyone who loves cycling and has an adventurous spirit!    

Fran Warwick

Southern Cape Bike Packing trip 2023 – PDF